Crossing Tibet and Yunnan in China

*Our second day in Tibet, heading for a mountain pass at almost 15,000’*

Driving through Tibet was a lifelong dream for us. But the logistics were complicated and it was expensive so we ended up limiting our time there. The Chinese government requires foreign drivers to have a guide and there are strict regulations controlling your travel so overlanders usually team up and share the cost of a guide. Foreigners are only allowed to stay in specified hotels and there is no tent camping allowed in Tibet. Sleeping in your vehicle is a bit of a grey area, sometimes it is allowed if associated with a foreigner registered hotel.

As we planned for our trip we were aware of the conflicting tensions between our idealized image of a mountainous country steeped in Buddhist history with a unique culture and the realities of a Chinese controlled state. Tibet was annexed by China in 1951, in what is known in China as the “peaceful liberation.” However, Tibetans have experienced subjugation and an attempt to eradicate their traditions, language and remote, nomadic ways of life. Their cultural and religious leader, the Dalai Lama was forced to leave the country when China took over. The dream of being able to wander and deeply explore at our own pace could not be a reality.

*Our route through Tibet and Yunnan provinces in China - 2300 miles*

We knew of three agencies that specialized in getting overlanders across China: Drive China, Road Pioneer and China Roadtrips. We had used Drive China on our route from Kyrgyzstan to Pakistan thru western China and had a great experience working with Merry and Bing. They are highly experienced, professional and easy to work with. As we prepared to cross on this longer trip, we joined a Whatsapp forum of travelers sharing information on traveling from Nepal to Laos across China. One of our members who ended up putting the trip together for everyone (thank you Max!) negotiated with all three organizations and we ended up going with China Roadtrips, the newest kid on the block, which was offering steep discounts to their first travelers. In the end it was a good decision, we saved a chunk of money and Edward at China Roadtrips was responsive and organized. We joined four other vehicles, one bicyclist and two motorcyclists for a 15 day crossing of Tibet and the Yunnan province in China.

We say “crossing” on purpose because the days were long - 6-8 hours of driving over steep mountain passes. For the eight days in Tibet our average elevation was close to 12,000’ and everyday climbing at least one pass over 14,000’. This was not so much a relaxed tour but a group of people caravanning across a unique and wonderful land -probably going too fast but also intent on saving travel costs.

*Our son, Trevor traveling with us through Tibet, fresh off trekking Mt. Everest passes in Nepal*

We had the added excitement that our son Trevor had decided to join us and ride along through Tibet. As an extra passenger in our vehicle he was only a $250 charge added on to the $1150 we were already paying for our share of the guides for two weeks.

*Approaching the Chinese border with Nepal*

*Our intrepid group of overlanders and guides*

You never know what is going to happen when a random group of strangers is collected to travel together. We tend to have faith that other overlanders are going to share somewhat similar philosophies and a relaxed attitude towards travel and the stresses that can come along with it. For the most part that was true. We had a lovely group as a whole, with lots of camaraderie, good cheer and evening beer. One couple separated themselves fairly early on. After they subjected everyone to several angry outbursts about individual behavior and group dynamics (causing one young woman to cry multiple times) it was easier for them to do their own thing, eating and parking separately. It was a little awkward but an acceptable solution for all. The couple happened to be in their late seventies and were clearly struggling with group logistics and driving their large vehicle (Unimog) in a caravan. It was a bit of a wake up call to us to think clearly about our life on the road and have an exit plan when it becomes too much for us to navigate cheerfully.

Entry into China was complex and bureaucratic. Our three guides (Edward the owner of China Roadtrips met us at the border and eventually handed us off to our Tibetan guide Tashi, then later we traveled with Alex in Yunnan) took control of the paperwork and translation, which we were grateful for. We were asked questions by the guards about our views on China and were required to turn over our phones for them to scan through our pictures and social media. We were warned in advance not to have any sensitive material available, especially any pictures of the Dalai Lama. Books were also a concern and they confiscated our son’s used copy of “The Smartest Guys in the Room” about the Enron collapse. We assume it was because it was about capitalism (although not the positive side of it).

*It was common to see government billboards in Chinese, we could translate them with our Googe translate - they feel a little spooky to us, like they were trying to tell us how to think*

*We spent our first night in the modern border town of Shigatse*

*Our first night Trevor had a room like this*

*While most of us slept in the parking lot*

So happy to have Trevor along - we are lucky that all three of our kids have traveled along with us at different points - there are not many people we would want to share our tiny space with but they all qualify.

*Lots of high mountain desert - very dry*

*Mount Everest peaking out of the clouds*

*And then hiding again, winds were ripping up the valley so we were hiding behind a rock, but still Trevor is wearing sandals . . .*

*Warming up with some yack soup, with French motorcyclist Max and Swiss overlander Teo who sleeps in the back of his hatchback Dacia*

*Admiring the switchbacks. Although twisty and steep, in general the roads in Tibet were excellent and well paved.*

*Our Tibetan guide, Tashi, arranged for us all to write prayers on Tibetan prayer flags and strung them at the mountain top*

*French motorcyclist Max chats with a local vendor. A deep thinker, adventurer and natural leader, Max is traveling the world after serving in Afghanistan - his blog can be found here:* *Scrambling Nomad*

*Soccer team having fun taking selfies with Andy*

*More beautiful traditional design work*

*Posing among the mountain top prayer flags*

*Ceremonial yak! (OK, really a yak dressed up for tourist photos)*

*Barren but starkly spectacular landscapes*

*Driving into the capital of Tibet, Lhasa, behind German motorcyclist Jacob and our guide car*

*Potala Palace, home of the Dalai Lama before we was forced to leave Tibet and move to India*

*Turning the prayer wheels near the entrance to the palace*

*Entering the inner palace - no photos allowed inside*

Following our visit to the palace, we made our way to old town Lhasa, a beautiful center with exquisitely carved homes and shops, filled with artisans, shrines and temples. The streets were filled with Tibetans in traditional clothing, Buddhist monks and Chinese tourists.

It was common for young tourists to dress in traditional clothing and take pictures around the old town centers throughout China. Western social media platforms are banned in China (we used a VPN to access Instagram, Whatsapp and Facebook) but there are plenty of Chinese based platforms and taking pictures appeared to be a common pastime.

The food throughout Tibet and Yunnan was delicious - we ate a LOT of rice and noodles, no surprise.

*When you are struggling to eat your noodle soup with chopsticks and splash on your clothes for the second time so the giggling waitress brings you a children’s apron*

*Portuguese cyclist Mara and Trevor join in the apron fun for moral support. A talented artist, Mara is cycling and painting around the world, her infectious smile always lit up the room.*

*More smooth roads and mountain scenery*

*Loving the unique Tibetan design aesthetic*

*Dutch overlanders Anouk and Hubert - loads of fun, Anouk is all sweetness and light (but with an adventurous core of steel) and Hubert likes to ask the penetrating questions with a twinkle in his eye*

*Camping at a traditional Tibetan guest house*

Jacob, German motorcyclist who has never met a meat he would not eat. Riding is in his blood - he wears his Grandfather’s jacket as he rides the world on a sabbatical from teaching English to high schoolers.

*On this trip we took pictures of Trevor instead of the truck*

*Gorgeous gates at entrances to different regions or towns*

The more rural we were, the more of a curiosity we were. People always wanted to know where we were from and where we were going.

*Local kids fascinated watching Andy and Hubert change a tire*

*Teo, our Swiss cowboy, a gentle soul and a true stealth overlander who slept in his station wagon and kindly was giving Mara and her bike a ride*

*Clay tanks distilling salt from the river - an ancient tradition*

*Driving into our last Tibetan village for the night*

*Grandma host at Trevor’s guest house - the colorful fabric panel on her skirt lets the world know she is married*

*Stopping at a roadside restaurant for lunch*

And then we sadly left Tibet behind and entered Yunnan. We felt the cultural shift immediately, the way people looked and dressed, the architecture and the shops. The mountains gradually disappeared.

Traveling in China was challenging for us in that we had the sense that we were always under surveillance. Rumors abounded of hidden cameras and microphones at tourist centers. We have no idea if that is true, but we definitely had the sense that we were in a country that controls its people much more strongly than we are used to. But on the other hand, as with every country we have been to where our governments may be in disagreement, the people we met and interacted with were super. Curious and kind, we always felt welcomed and enjoyed the cultural exchanges.

Photo at the entrance gate to the tourist section of Shangri-La. We had been excited to visit this mythical place but then learned that China had renamed a modern city Shangri La in 2001 to attract tourists.

*Once we left Tibet and entered Yunnan we were able to camp in campgrounds which was a welcome relief*

Our beautiful camp children. An integral part of our group - Spanish parents Carlota and Jaime were raising their children on the road. They have more energy and good spirit than any parents we have met! Jaime was also the invaluable trip mechanic cheerfully tackling the multiple breakdowns and issues people were having. Jaime rolled up his sleeves and crawled under vehicles while Carlota opened up her kitchen and made food.

Although a very different experience than being in Tibet, we truly found the old towns of the cities in Yunnan to be fascinating - a culinary and visual feast. One of the most beautiful was Lijiang.

*Courtyards were a glimple into the lifestyle*

*Different but equally beautiful architecture to Tibet*

*Lots of mysterious (for us!) items for sale - mushrooms and a variety of fungi were very popular*

*And some more contemporary products for sale*

*Dawn’s favorite food was vegetable fried rice*

*Andy usually went for the endless variety of flavorful noodles*

*We were not brave enough to try the insect buffet*

After leaving Lijiang, we stopped off at our last historic Silk Road trading post towns in China - Shaxi and Dali.

*Even the more contemporary architecture was beautiful*

*Mara leaves the group to go cycle - once we left Tibet, she was allowed to bicycle without a guide in China*

*Old Silk Road caravanserai in Dali old town*

*Trevor admiring some of the most amazing wood carving we have seen*

*It was always worth peaking into the courtyards*

*Although he often ended up staying in guest houses with the motorcyclists, Trevor did try out our dinette sleeping area - he mostly fit*

*Wandering the streets of a small village in Yunnan*

Well that is a wrap for a truly iconic part of our round the world journey. Thank you for reading and as always feel free to reach out with any questions if you are planning something similar! Safe travels.